Campobasso is the regional capital.. It’s a good place to see the interesting ruins at Saepinum, and if you’re around in early June, don’t miss the town’s spectacular Corpus Christi Sagra dei Misteri procession, in which citizens are dressed as saints, angels and devils, inserted into fantastic contraptions and transported, seemingly suspended in midair, through the streets.

At any other time of the year the most notable attraction is the Samnite Museum (daily 8.30am-7.30pm; free) at Via Chiarizia 12, with statues and archeological finds from the area. Steep alleys of the small, old upper town lead up to a couple of Romanesque churches – San Bartolomeo, which has eerily contorted figures carved around its main door, and San Giorgio, whose entrance displays a dragon surrounded by stylized flowers. The views at least are extensive, though they consist mostly of Campobasso’s suburban sprawl. And there’s little point carrying on up the hill to the monastery and sixteenth-century castle: the monastery is modern, and the castle now a weather station.

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